Approaching the Sick and Injured
Remember during a traumatic episode a dog may become temporarily blind or deaf. Therefore, be sure to stimulate all of their senses. Stamping your feet on the ground a small distance away can create vibrations to alert them of your approach if you feel they are not responding to you. Try to stimulate all of their senses to avoid being bitten
The calmer you are, the calmer they will be. Acting emotionally and erratically can create a stressful atmosphere leading to an increased blood pressure in the dog. Increased blood pressure causes higher blood loss both internally and externally
No matter how well you know the dog, any sick or injured animal can behaviour differently which increases your risk of being bitten
Try to avoid using treats/food as a way of gaining trust. Your vet may need to perform an anaesthetic or sedation which requires nil by mouth for at least 6 hours prior if possible
Always consider using a muzzle when moving any injured dog, including your own. But leave it on for the minimum time required. Basket muzzles can remain on for long periods. Tie a make-shift muzzle tight to avoid it loosening to much but not too tight that it causes discomfort. Remove make-shift muzzles as soon as they have been moved as they prevent the dog being able to pant
Remember during a traumatic episode a dog may become temporarily blind or deaf. Therefore, be sure to stimulate all of their senses. Stamping your feet on the ground a small distance away can create vibrations to alert them of your approach if you feel they are not responding to you. Try to stimulate all of their senses to avoid being bitten
The calmer you are, the calmer they will be. Acting emotionally and erratically can create a stressful atmosphere leading to an increased blood pressure in the dog. Increased blood pressure causes higher blood loss both internally and externally
- • Get down low and approach slow
- • Yawning and licking your lips may help to calm them
- • Using a relaxed higher-pitched tone of voice can be helpful but stop talking if they respond negatively
- • Avoid eye contact so approach from the side
- • Avoid showing your teeth as this can be read as threatening behaviour by some dogs
- • Avoid putting your hand out to the dog
- • Placing a towel or coat over the dog’s head may calm them
No matter how well you know the dog, any sick or injured animal can behaviour differently which increases your risk of being bitten
Try to avoid using treats/food as a way of gaining trust. Your vet may need to perform an anaesthetic or sedation which requires nil by mouth for at least 6 hours prior if possible
Always consider using a muzzle when moving any injured dog, including your own. But leave it on for the minimum time required. Basket muzzles can remain on for long periods. Tie a make-shift muzzle tight to avoid it loosening to much but not too tight that it causes discomfort. Remove make-shift muzzles as soon as they have been moved as they prevent the dog being able to pant
Never tourniquet a bleeding wound unless blood loss is extreme – it can cause pain and lead to amputation of the bleeding limb
What might your approach be to mild skin irritations/wounds (often under the guidance of your vet)?
1. Clip hair away – to stop any debris irritating the area plus its easier to keep clean
2. Stop the dog licking the area – use Elizabethan collars, surgical shirts or bandages. Bandaging paws may sometimes be require if a dog is using it to scratch and irritate the wound
3. Initially you may bathe the area daily but decrease frequency to allow it to dry out
4. Cold black tea, colloidal silver, diluted iodine solution and saline can all be useful
5. Avoid salt water as it can irritate the area
6. Check with your vet before applying anything to a wound. To a mild irritation you could pat it dry after bathing and use medical grade manuka honey (great for mild to more severe/infected wounds), colloidal silver cream or coconut oil – always check first
Apple cider vinegar labelled ‘with the mother’ can be useful when bathing mild wounds that are not open
It can also help itchy skin or mild rashes at a 50:50 dilution as long as the area isn’t sore or raw.
It can also be useful orally or diluted to clean your dog’s ears to help with yeast infections, ask your vet if it would be suitable for your dog
What might your approach be to mild skin irritations/wounds (often under the guidance of your vet)?
1. Clip hair away – to stop any debris irritating the area plus its easier to keep clean
2. Stop the dog licking the area – use Elizabethan collars, surgical shirts or bandages. Bandaging paws may sometimes be require if a dog is using it to scratch and irritate the wound
3. Initially you may bathe the area daily but decrease frequency to allow it to dry out
4. Cold black tea, colloidal silver, diluted iodine solution and saline can all be useful
5. Avoid salt water as it can irritate the area
6. Check with your vet before applying anything to a wound. To a mild irritation you could pat it dry after bathing and use medical grade manuka honey (great for mild to more severe/infected wounds), colloidal silver cream or coconut oil – always check first
Apple cider vinegar labelled ‘with the mother’ can be useful when bathing mild wounds that are not open
It can also help itchy skin or mild rashes at a 50:50 dilution as long as the area isn’t sore or raw.
It can also be useful orally or diluted to clean your dog’s ears to help with yeast infections, ask your vet if it would be suitable for your dog
Bite wounds
- Bite wounds have a high risk of becoming infected and are classed as contaminated if they break the skin, so require antibiotics
- Some will be left open to heal but surgically reduced where possible
- Wounds treated within 6 hours post injury have the best prognosis with regards to healing without complications
Puncture wounds
- Puncture wounds are concerning as they can create holes that enter the chest or abdominal cavities. The result can be a pyothorax (pus in the chest) or septic peritonitis (pus in the abdomen)
- They need to be explored by a vet
- Cover with a dressing during transportation to minimise infection or entry of foreign material
Surgical wounds
- Surgical wounds are clean and uncontaminated and infection is usually as a result of licking. Arnica can help speed the healing of surgical wounds – ask your vet
- Any discharge or loose stitches need checking
- Cover the wound during transportation. I have seen dogs cause a lot of trauma in a short space of time resulting in the whole wound opening up
Wounds of unknown origin
- Alabama rot also known as Cutaneous and renal glomerular vasculopathy or CRGV can cause unexplained sores that are about the size of a 5p
- Commonly found on the lower limbs, abdomen, mouth and face
- Often these wounds appear to take a very long time to heal and are irritating to the dog causing them to lick
- The number of confirmed cases of CRGV in the UK in 6 years is less than 200 so most wounds will be due to a cause other than Alabama rot, but always check if you are unsure
- It does not appear to be contagious dog to dog
- The cause is still unknown and there isn’t a test to confirm it so your vet may just check your dog’s kidney function every day for up to 10 days if the sores are suspicious
- Alabama rot appears to affect dogs during the winter and spring months and there may be a link to muddy or boggy areas
- Washing the mud off your dog’s legs may or may not help, there isn’t any evidence to support this either way
Controlling an external bleed
- Cobwebs are rich in vitamin K which makes them useful in helping blood clotting if you don’t have access to other products
- Cornflour can also be used, always wash it off once the bleeding has stopped.
- There are other haemostatic powders available such as Clot It
- Keep the dog calm and minimise movement so carry them wherever possible
- Use bandages to apply pressure and re-apply another bandage if the blood soaks through (strike-through)
- Ice packs can slow a bleed – do not apply directly to the skin
Hotspots
- A hotspot is an area of wet eczema that can become smelly with a discharge with may require medication such as antibiotics
- Sometimes they have an underlying cause and are often more commonly seen in dogs with allergic conditions
- Self-trauma around the tail base can lead to a hotspot and some common causes are full anal glands, flea or tapeworm
- Some fleas carry tapeworm so if you see fleas then make sure you are up-to-date with worming prevention
Lungworm
- Can cause excessive bleeding from minor wounds and during surgical procedures so make sure you dogs either has a rest or receives preventative treatment prior to surgery
- Picked up from slugs and snails including ingestion of grass or licking soil where they have been. Some geographical areas are at an increased risk
- Breathing and weight loss are two other clinical signs often seen as the condition progresses
- Referred to as the ‘silent killer’ – as often shows minimal signs if any
- There are several species of lungworm and a faecal or blood sample can be tested to see if your dog is infected
- Preventative lungworm treatments are available
If applied correctly bandages can be a useful tool. They can stem bleeding, minimise infection, protect wounds and provide support
Swelling, pain, irritation and sores can all occur if applied incorrectly
Some useful equipment to own for applying bandages:
Swelling, pain, irritation and sores can all occur if applied incorrectly
Some useful equipment to own for applying bandages:
- Cotton wool – not to be applied directly to wounds
- Sterile foam – useful to go over a wound
- Softban – good for a first layer especially if the bandage is going to stay on for longer
- Conforming bandage– first layer for short-term bandages or second layer over softban for dressings staying on for longer periods
- Cohesive bandage – sticky bandage, only to be used if you are experienced. Applied incorrectly it can be extremely constrictive
- Tape – to secure the bandage
- Blunt end scissors – to cut dressings
- Gloves – to protect yourself and minimise contamination
Ear bandages are useful as very small injuries to the ear can result in excessive bleeding
1. Put the injured ear either flat against the side of the dog’s face or up across their head. Flat against their face will help to stop blood trickling into the ear canal, however position it whichever way you feel would be of most comfort
2. Take a conforming bandage and start at the centre of your dog’s head with the bandage roll on top of the bandage, not underneath
Hold the end of the bandage with your other hand and take the roll over the injured ear and under the dog’s throat area. Bring it up, round and in front of the good ear. Repeat this process 3 or 4 times. Then bring it up and behind the good ear in a figure of 8 motion. It will create a cross on top of the dog’s head
Tuck it in or use a piece of tape to secure it
1. Put the injured ear either flat against the side of the dog’s face or up across their head. Flat against their face will help to stop blood trickling into the ear canal, however position it whichever way you feel would be of most comfort
2. Take a conforming bandage and start at the centre of your dog’s head with the bandage roll on top of the bandage, not underneath
Hold the end of the bandage with your other hand and take the roll over the injured ear and under the dog’s throat area. Bring it up, round and in front of the good ear. Repeat this process 3 or 4 times. Then bring it up and behind the good ear in a figure of 8 motion. It will create a cross on top of the dog’s head
Tuck it in or use a piece of tape to secure it
- • Never use safety pins
- • Avoid cohesive dressings if you aren’t experienced in using them as they can tighten and constrict the airway
- • Make sure you can get 2 fingers down into the dressing
An abdominal bandage could be particularly useful to slow an internal bleed. However, to be effective it needs to be applied with some pressure, if it restricts breathing or causes pain you have to remove it. A normal abdominal dressing is applied with the usual pressure so that you are able to get two fingers between the dressing and the skin
1. Start midway along the dogs back and work towards their hips. Overlap each layer by ½ to 2/3 as with all dressings. Use the conforming bandage as your first layer and apply a cohesive layer over the top if you are experienced and confident with using it
2. Make sure the cohesive dressing doesn’t overlap the conforming bandage at either end as it can irritate the skin
3. Apply tape either side to hold it in place. This is likely to be a short-term bandage, but for longer periods, make sure male dogs can urinate
1. Start midway along the dogs back and work towards their hips. Overlap each layer by ½ to 2/3 as with all dressings. Use the conforming bandage as your first layer and apply a cohesive layer over the top if you are experienced and confident with using it
2. Make sure the cohesive dressing doesn’t overlap the conforming bandage at either end as it can irritate the skin
3. Apply tape either side to hold it in place. This is likely to be a short-term bandage, but for longer periods, make sure male dogs can urinate
Chest bandages are not commonly used. Use one to cover a puncture wound of unknown origin before travelling to the vets.
1. Start at the middle of the back and move forward. To avoid the dressing slipping, you can pass it through the front legs and back up over the chest area
2. Adopt the same principles as the abdominal bandage with regards to – conforming layer first, overlap by ½ - 2/3, ensure you can get two fingers down and secure with tape
1. Start at the middle of the back and move forward. To avoid the dressing slipping, you can pass it through the front legs and back up over the chest area
2. Adopt the same principles as the abdominal bandage with regards to – conforming layer first, overlap by ½ - 2/3, ensure you can get two fingers down and secure with tape
A paw bandage is one of the more commonly used dressings. It can be extended to cover wounds higher up on the leg
Bandaging a back foot can be useful if a dog is using the foot to scratch a wound on their head or body. The bandage will help stop further skin trauma
Do not leave the toes out of the dressing, even if the wound is higher up the leg. You may cause the toes to swell, leading to a fat foot which will be painful
1. Apply dressings to a clean wound if possible
2. Apply a small amount of cotton wool between the toes to prevent them from rubbing. Cotton wool can also be placed around the stopper pad and dew claw if the dressing is being left on for a period of time.
3. Use a padded dressing as your first layer, for example softban and work from the foot upwards
4. Note how to correctly start the dressing (pictures below)
5. A conforming bandage is used as the next layer and is applied in the same way as softban trying to keep equal tension. You can split the end of the bandage once applied and tie it to keep it secure
6. The final layer is a cohesive dressing. When applying this, always hold it in place with one hand, whilst you stretch and release more of the bandage from the roll with the other hand. Make sure to do this before applying to the dog, this way you will prevent it becoming too tight. If you are unsure on how to use this type of bandage then leave it off
7. Finish the cohesive layer slightly below the conforming layer
8. Secure the dressing with some tape
9. Check you can get two fingers down into the dressing
You can use a poo bag over the dressing to keep it clean and dry but it can cause sweat build up inside the dressing so do not leave it on for long periods
Surgical spirit is useful to spray onto the tape before removal. It makes it less sticky and easier to pull away from the fur minimising discomfort
Bandaging a back foot can be useful if a dog is using the foot to scratch a wound on their head or body. The bandage will help stop further skin trauma
Do not leave the toes out of the dressing, even if the wound is higher up the leg. You may cause the toes to swell, leading to a fat foot which will be painful
1. Apply dressings to a clean wound if possible
2. Apply a small amount of cotton wool between the toes to prevent them from rubbing. Cotton wool can also be placed around the stopper pad and dew claw if the dressing is being left on for a period of time.
3. Use a padded dressing as your first layer, for example softban and work from the foot upwards
4. Note how to correctly start the dressing (pictures below)
5. A conforming bandage is used as the next layer and is applied in the same way as softban trying to keep equal tension. You can split the end of the bandage once applied and tie it to keep it secure
6. The final layer is a cohesive dressing. When applying this, always hold it in place with one hand, whilst you stretch and release more of the bandage from the roll with the other hand. Make sure to do this before applying to the dog, this way you will prevent it becoming too tight. If you are unsure on how to use this type of bandage then leave it off
7. Finish the cohesive layer slightly below the conforming layer
8. Secure the dressing with some tape
9. Check you can get two fingers down into the dressing
You can use a poo bag over the dressing to keep it clean and dry but it can cause sweat build up inside the dressing so do not leave it on for long periods
Surgical spirit is useful to spray onto the tape before removal. It makes it less sticky and easier to pull away from the fur minimising discomfort
